Why did they remove the command to do it? I get not having the space for a button, but making a decision for the user about what they want seems like a bad move for an app that by design selects a userbase of power users. There’s a big difference between creating a “default” experience without making them customize, and completely removing their ability to do so.
The existing method of tab switching is slow and clunky and desktop can both stack tabs and also place tabs in that right sidebar I never use, so really there ought to just be a toggle for desktop functionality for those that want it